Sunday, August 14, 2011

Minimizing Breakage Series: Chelating and Clarifying

Moisturizing Shampoos are very important to use for textured hair. However, when you use tons of products in your hair on a weekly basis, your hair can benefit from a monthly clarifying.
These are the signs to look for when your hair has product build up:
  • Shampoo does not lather well
  • hair and scalp feel coated
  • hair feels limp and flat with no movement
  • experiencing unexplainable breakage in the presence of a good protein and moisture balance
Clarifying Shampoos are useful for cleaning hair that routinely has heavy oils, gels serums and greases. Clarifying Shampoos are best used  once a month, to lift up the build up that moisturizing shampoos cannot remove. However, Clarifying shampoos give a squeaky clean feel and in most cases strip the hair of its natural oils, leaving the hair vulnerable to damage. This is why Clarifying Shampoos should be used every four to six weeks. Also, any sulfate shampoo can clarify.

I personally use Curls Clarifying hampoo every 6 to 8 weeks. It does not dry my hair out at all but then I always use a moisturizing treatment after that.  If you have not done so already, check out my review of Curls Clarifying Shampoo HERE.

These are some of the clarifying shampoos recommended in the book, "The Science of Black Hair"

  • Alba Botanica Daily Shampoo (can also be a chelating shampoo)
  • Alterna Clarifying Shampoo
  • Artec Textureline Daily Clarifying Sampoo (can also be a chelating shampoo)
  • Carols's Daughter Rosemary Mint Purifying Shampoo
  • Curls Pure Curls Clarifying Shampoo(I use this and love it!!)
  • Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo
  • Hair Rules Aloe Grapefruit Purifying Shampoo
  • Jessicurl Gentle Lather Shampoo
  • Kiss My Face Aromatherapeutic Shampoo
  • Quidad Clear and Gentle Essntial Daily Shampoo

Chelating Shampoos

In my last post on these series, I discussed the areas mostly affected by hard water. One of the signs of a hard water problem is breakage that will just not end. Buying water filters to attach to your shower heads may free you of unecessary stress of  having to use strong shampoos such as chelating shampoos. Chelating shampoos are more potent than clarifying shampoos. They are specifically designed to remove mineral deposits from the hair. Chelating shampoos work on a deep level, in that they bind to the mineral deposits on the hair shaft and remove them in the lather.. So they do affect the hair's bonding structure. Mineral Bonds on the hair shaft are chemical bonds that cannot be removed with any moisturizing and clarifying shampoos.

Please note that chelating shampoos are very potent and are best for those living in Hard water areas. And like clarifying shampoos, they should be used sparingly, as frequent use of chelating shampoos can cause severe hair dryness and dandruff.

A common ingredient to look for in chelating shampoos is ethyl-enediaminetetra acetic acid (EDTA)

These are the chelating shampoos recommended in the book mentioned above

  • Bumble and Bumble Sunday Shampoo
  • CURL Junkie Daily Fix Cleanser
  • Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo
  • Joico Resolve Chelating Shampoo
  • Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
  • Keracare Demineralizing Treatment
  • Nexxus Aloe Rid Gentle Clarifying Shampoo
  • Nexxus Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo
  • Quidad Waterworks shampoo
  • Paul Mitchell Shampoo  Three
  • Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo

Please note that you can use chelating shampoos after swimming to remove chlorine from your hair.



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